Agra

Taj Mahal in Agra
Taj Mahal as viewed from across the Ganges River

August 2, 2008

I woke up at 4:30am today to go to the train station to catch a train from Delhi to Agra. I was seated next to a Swiss girl, who is also in India on business. She was very nice and our conversation helped the trip move very quickly. We arrived to the train station in Agra swarmed by anyone and everyone looking to make a quick buck. Outside, however I found my ride waiting for me and her's waiting for her.

My guide was very good and I knew I liked him when he explained that it’s his job to take me to overpriced tourist shops because his company gets a kick back. Then he told me that he is going to tell me to hire a photographer at the Taj Mahal, but it’s really a ripoff unless I want a whole portfolio of myself at the Taj Mahal. He was very down to earth and it was clear he was ready to find a new job.

The Taj Mahal was very impressive. At first, I was slightly disappointed, since seeing it in real life is just like seeing it in pictures.. until you get closer. What I’ve never noticed is that the entire building has stones inlayed into the marble. When you see the detail it becomes so much more impressive.

Taj Mahal in Agra
Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal in Agra
Taj Mahal's details

After the Taj Mahal we headed to Agra Fort, which is similar to the Red Fort in Delhi, but less touristy. We also went to the Baby Taj, which was almost more impressive than the actual Taj Mahal. It was build prior to the Taj Mahal and the inlayed stone work was much more extensive. It was also strikingly similar to the Taj Mahal, because the Taj Mahal was actually modeled after this building and not vice versa. To me the inlayed stone work was too overwhelming, but the skill required is impressive none-the-less.

The rest of the day was slow and filled with attempts to find something to do. At one point we went to the main tourist office to find out what time my train leaves because it said both 1:20pm and 9:45pm depending on the source. Apparently, the train leaves its origin at 1:20, but my stop is at 9:45. Again, it makes no sense, but we’re in India and the logic is there, it’s just very different from our own.

Baby Taj Mahal in Agra
Baby Taj Mahal

Perhaps the day’s highlight was the garden opposite the Taj Mahal. We spent no time in the gardens, but rather went straight to the small pond where the view of the Taj is incredible. It was like being on the grounds of the Taj, but without hundreds of people.

After having dinner, I headed to the train station to catch my train. I arrived early and found the train station completely blacked out. I wasn’t sure why there were no lights; it was rather sketchy and I didn’t let go of my pocket with my passport and wallet in it. After nearly a half hour the lights went on and I realized it was just an extended power outage.

As the train time approached more and more backpackers started showing up. Apparently I’m on the backpacker route… for the first time this trip. I haven’t seen any backpackers or tourists except at the major Delhi sights and Agra; Bangalore and Kashmir I saw no one.

While I was waiting for the train I only saw one other single traveler, Tim, an American from LA, who is currently living in Sudan. As we began talking we realized neither of us has seen any Americans or single travelers, which is quite different from backpacking in Europe.

The train soon came and we went our separate ways. I found myself in the third class air conditioned cabin, although I bought a second class ticket from the travel agent, which I suppose is just an unwilling tip given without my knowledge.

Baby Taj Mahal in Agra
Baby Taj Mahal

Baby Taj Mahal in Agra
Baby Taj Mahal