Tarangire National Park
Elephant in Tarangire National Park
August 14, 2003
The drive to Tarangire was monotonous: dirt roads, Masai villages and herders. The
closer to the park entrance we came the more the scene changed and seemed to reflect
the stereotypical “bush” of Africa. On the final approach to the park there were
speed bumps to prevent speeding and at each were children trying to sell dead cobras
that they claim to have killed. These snakes reached up to five or six feet in length.
Once at the park gate we came across a very pleasant surprise: American candy, we
brought a few Kit Kat and Twix bars. As planned, we rushed trough the park and saw
a few Masai giraffes and elephants, but little else. We arrived at our hotel in
45 minutes, the Tarangire Sopa Lodge, situated in the middle of the park. We arrived
in time to witness an incredible sunset, then joined everyone for dinner.
Sunset over an acacia tree in Tarangire National Park
August 15, 2003
We arose at 6:30 to watch yet another sunrise, but this one over the bush as opposed
to a mountain wall. I was the first to breakfast so had time to relax after my meal
before setting off.
Once in the "safari-mobiles" everyone seemed warn out and tired, but within
five minutes of leaving we came upon the most incredible sight, sounds, and smells;
an unexpected surprise. The same road on which we drove just 15 hours ago was now
home to a recent kill, about five hours old according to our guide, Eric. Feasting
on the kill was a hungry lion pack of about 20 lionesses. There were about ten lions
across the road or just down the way who had eaten to their fill, and another nine
lions still feeding on the kill, which was almost entirely gone: only bones, a skull,
feces, intestines, and a little neck and rib meat left. We parked about 10 feet
from these lions and watched them growl and fight over the last little bits of what
was once an African cape buffalo. We could hear their growls and smell the feces
and carcass of the quickly disappearing animal.
The pack of lions feeding on what was a cape buffalo
Road block
Many of the larger lionesses had finished eating, but the largest lioness there
was still eating, occasionally standing and walking around her kill, as if she were
guarding it from hyena... and perhaps from us. She would stop, just feet away from
our safari-mobiles and stare us down, showing no fear, but pride and a confidence
unsurpassed by any other lioness. As she joined her pack they quickly moved aside
to let her eat, whereas they fought with the other lionesses for room. After watching
for about 20 minutes we left to see other parts of the incredible park.
Soon after leaving we came across a few elephant families with about 10 to 30 elephants
in each. All were female elephant herds and many baby elephants were present, which
led to uncertainty for the mother elephants feared us and seemed much more willing
to attack than any lion. Two times, one mother elephant stared us down as the rest
of the herd crossed the road and only after they were safe from us did the largest
mother cross.
Elephants in Tarangire
One time however the mother seemed more threatened than the others and she began
to come closer and closer until finally she began a jog towards our safari-mobile
while shacking her head violently, only to see us move out of her way. After leaving
this area we came across a fervent monkey, dik diks, a tree full of about 60 baboons,
fishing eagles, more elephants, and a couple Masai giraffes. We tried our best,
but to no avail to find cobras hanging form the trees.
On our way out we stopped to eat at the park gate and soon on the road to our first
of two stores. I tried to bargain, but with no luck, they refused to go down to
what I wanted and so they lost my business. Their prices were set high and few people
bought anything.
Lions and termite mounds in the bush